2020 Cantina del Pino Barbaresco Ovello

94 Points Kerin O'Keefe
In stock
A single vineyard Barbaresco from one of the area's finest vineyards and most dedicated producers. Depth and minerality sit back while fruit and sweet tannins wrap this perfect package in vibrant charm and definition. The Ovello Cru vineyard is this producer's spiritual home and it shows in this loving rendition which, like all Cantina del Pino wines, is very underpriced for the increasingly well recognised quality in the bottle. Get in at the ground floor.
$95.00 in mixed 6+ or $105.00 per bottle

Grape

Nebbiolo

Its Origins

This is one of the oldest estates in Barbaresco and very important in the region. The director of Alba’s Royal Enological School, Domizio Cavazza, purchased the land in 1894, confounding locals by not investing in the famed Barolo area. He had identified the potential of the Nebbiolo grape here, on hills above an obscure village called Barbaresco. That same year he founded the Cantine Sociali as the first cooperative in the area (precursor to today's Produttori), and from this property he produced the very first wines under the now-famous appellation. They are located on the top of the legendary Ovello hillside, now one of the greatest vineyard areas in the denomination. The site is known for its combination of cooler microclimate and unique soils, blending limestone with sandy veins and a high calcium content, the perfect conditions for an elegant, age-worthy Barbaresco. Cantina del Pino has been owned and run by the Vacca family for a century. They have had the property since the 1920s when Giuseppe Vacca, bought it from his friend, and renamed it after the famous pine tree Cavazza planted the day of his son’s birth. Giuseppe and his uncles were among the 19 founding members of the Produttori del Barbaresco when it restarted in 1958. The modern story starts in 1997 when Giuseppe’s great grandson Renato joined his father at Cantina del Pino, and convinced him it was finally time to make their own wines. He and his wife Franca have led the estate to even greater heights since she joined in 2013, with a more refined and contemporary style, and a dedication to the environment. With an approximately equal range (40-70 years) of both the vine age, and of that of the family workforce of aunts and uncles that look after them, the wines here are the perfect balance of long established authenticity and modern low intervention winemaking. Tragically Renato passed away in 2020 at just 51 years of age. The iconic pine on the label is still black in his honour. These are pure, understated and elegant Barbaresco’s, with an incredibly complex expression of terroir, and great aging capacity. Franca, a winemaker in her own right, along with Renato’s parents, now continue the tradition and dedication to the quality wines of Cantina del Pino, the historic winery on the Ovello Hill.

What The Critics Say

94/100 Kerin O'Keefe

"There is a lot of emotion coming back to this wine, the estate’s benchmark. It has always been an expression of Barbaresco nostalgia and romanticism, even when its creator was alive and well, working in these vines located directly under his family house. Spicy and elegant, the 2020 Ovello from Cantina del Pino opens with heady scents of ground clove, nutmeg, dog rose, camphor and wild berry. All about finesse, the graceful, full-bodied palate offers juicy pomegranate, red cherry, star anise and bitter orange alongside taut, polished tannins. Such a beautiful wine." Drink 2025 - 2030

94/100 Parker's Wine Advocate, Monica Larner

"From the sloping vineyard site just below the Cantina del Pino winery, the 2020 Barbaresco Ovello always holds special significance in the hearts and minds of those who collect and drink these wines. Always reflective of the house style, the wine is open-knit and delicate on the senses, folding over the palate with delicate notes of wild berry fruit, blue flower and light touches of smoke or campfire. Production is 5,400 bottles. Drink 2026-2040"

92/100 Wine enthusiast, Jeff Porter

"Imagine plucking strawberries and raspberries straight from the bush, their freshness and tartness filling the air. Accompanying this fruit-forward bouquet are hints of wild herbs, evoking a walk through a forest, with touches of pine in the breeze. The palate is a nod to the classics, with those tart wild berries taking center stage. The fine tannins are like a gentle reminder that this wine is meant for pairing—think a rustic mushroom risotto or a herb-crusted rack of lamb. Drink from 2025."

Variety Nebbiolo
Region Piedmont
Closure Cork
Volume 750ml
Maturity 2025 - 2040

This Wine Goes Well With

with BEEF
with GAME
with PORK

Taste

4

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