2022 Donnhoff Roxheimer Hollenpfad im Mühlenberg GG Trocken

"The 2022 Riesling Roxheimer Höllenpfad im Mühlberg Grosses Gewächs is from a special, old parcel of 40-year-old Riesling within the stoniest, rockiest parts of the Permian sandstone of the Höllenpfad. A touch of yeast still plays with the ripe apricot fruit that shimmers shyly on the nose. A touch of white pepper later appears. The palate is stony yet rounded, structured by rockiness, with vivid glimmers of lemon oil, concentrated and increasingly zesty. It's pure yet has an increasingly insistent intensity, spraying with ripe lemon zestiness, white pepper and iron oxide. In the end, buffered lemon zest fills the mouth and mind. The 2022 is long, pure, zesty and insistent. (Bone-dry)." Drink 2025 - 2050

“Fine, red sandstone on a very steep southern slope, further from the river. Very old vines. Very striking nose of wild berries and herbs (tarragon!) plus some white peach. Very zesty and vibrant with stacks of mountain freshness on the sleek and focused body, this has stacks of lime zest and pith at the very energetic dry finish. Drink or hold.”

"Lobenberg: This monopoly location, which is registered as a large location, has a total of four hectares, but this GG only comes from one hectare of the oldest vines. The location is basically made of red sandstone, but there is also this section from which this GG comes, where there is a lot of pure rock involved. Helmut Dönnhoff suggested a long, long time ago that there could be a potential Great Growth here in the Hell's Path, and this has been around for a few years now. Red sandstone with a lot of rock in between. The Höllenpfad is located in Roxheim, in a cool side valley behind Bad-Kreuznach. It is completely different from the location on the Nahe, especially because of this sandstone like Fürst has, like Rebholz has in the Southern Palatinate and also the Rhine front on the Roter Hang. The nose is filled with warm but barren, stony fruit, there is a lot of yellow peach, a lot of grapefruit, red tea and yellow flowers, yuzu. Already a bit bulky. Then the astonishing thing: the wine is nowhere near as dramatic and mineral as the Höllenpfad location suggests, but rather it has size and grandeur, a higher level of maturity than the first location outside. They are also the oldest vines. The sandstone mountain produces very small, thick-skinned berries. The iron content also gives it a rich spiciness. It becomes a little wilder, more bitter in expression, doesn't quite have the elegance of the slate, but rather more intensity and piquant fruit from grapefruit, orange peel, mandarin. This is riper, denser and creamier than the first layer of Hell's Path, but has almost more drama and play. Wow, what great intensity. There's real music in the glass, everything plays, vibrates and bites into the eternal aftertaste in a grippy, salty, expressive way. Rolls up again and again in salt, herbs, warm red citrus and rock. Currant and lilac, a hint of nutmeg and slim lychee. Something reminiscent of the Erdener Prälat in its style. This is a miracle of harmony, because the texture is simultaneously velvety, engaging and dramatically mineral, roughened and exciting. The mouth really hits, there's salt, pressure, acid. It seems slightly slimmer than 2019 and 2017, but no less exciting, almost perhaps more exciting in this racy, extremely finely chiseled and yet somewhat wild way. That's pretty impressive."