2022 Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Auslese (375 ml)
Grape
Riesling
Its Origins
Hailed by the likes of Robert Parker and Hugh Johnson and named Gault Millau Winemaker of the Year in 1999, Helmut Donnhoff is regarded in German Riesling circles as a super-star. And if you’re thinking that term is somehow an oxymoron, you’d probably find Helmut agrees. With the affable humility and deep deference to his vineyards of someone whose family have been making wine since 1750, Donnhoff believes that “winemaking alone cannot bring quality, it can only retain the available quality.” Wine is made in the vineyard, and from taking the helm in 1971 to the present day Helmut has grown the family holdings from 4 hectares to a still modest 20 hectares of lovingly managed vineyards. 80% of these are Riesling (many of them Erste Lage or Grand Cru) with the other 20%, reflecting Nahe’s less austere climates and more mixed clay and volcanic soils, given to Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc. But Riesling is king, with Helmut Donnhoff’s many classics from the steeper slate soils having themselves played a prominent role, over the last forty years, in formalising Nahe’s reputation as Germany’s third region for consistently premium and Grand Cru wines.
What The Critics Say
97/100 JamesSuckling.com, Stuart Pigott
"Wonderful nose of exotic fruits and flowers. More than enough concentration, but what makes this stand out is the interplay of ripeness - floral honey as much as very ripe citrus - with a vibrant acidity that lights up the sky. Dazzling, diamond-bright finish! From organically grown grapes with Fair'n Green certification. Drink or hold"
97-99/100 Heiner Lobenberg
"The Oberhäuser Brücke site runs completely through. The Große Gewächs, which goes to auction and is probably the largest GG of the house. Spätlese, Auslese and GG are harvested together, only manually then selected into the individual qualities. This is almost only possible in the Brücke. The spectacularly filigree Spätlese, which is so much more prancing than the equivalent, but still quite different Hermannshöhle. And now in the Auslese, the difference becomes if anything even more pronounced. The Hermannshöhle pushes and shoves and is much more massive. It's a huge wine, but already very stout. The Brücke, on the other hand, is delicate even as an Auslese. It smells Muselan, at any rate cool and delicate. This fine site directly on the Nahe below, is totally different from Hermannshöhle. The Brücke is an outstanding sweet wine site. And where the Spätlese clearly had a Mosel nose, the Auslese from the Brücke is more Saar. It is so incredibly delicate and prancing, showing itself less punchy than the Spätlese, even more floaty. Yellow peach, ripe grapefruit, fully ripe citrus, green and yellow mango, kiwi. The wine is so deliciously juicy, you forget the sugar, you automatically focus on this sloppy, prancing fruit." Drink 2023 - 2071
95/100 Vinous, Anne Krebiehl MW
"The 2022 Riesling Oberhäuser Brücke Auslese is a rarity. The dry year was not one to favor botrytis. "It was not an Auslese year, but we always have the ambition to harvest a little Auslese in these two vineyards, namely Brücke and Hermannshöhle," Helmut says. They manage to pick fruit with a little botrytis, selected relatively early. The nose seems more toned down than the Spätlese, yet underneath are glimmers of passion fruit, with its lovely greenish, tart notion and tropical overtones. The palate has the same tropical sweetness, vivid, aromatic, alluring and seductive. It's concentrated rather than colored by botrytis. Very pure, linear, pristine and exquisite. This is an elixir-like liquid on tiptoe, pirouetting, trailing tropical perfume and finishing in citrus. This is about brightness, not weight. (Sweet)" Drink 2028-2050
Variety | Riesling |
---|---|
Region | Nahe |
Closure | Cork |
Volume | 375ml |
Alcohol | 7.50% |
Maturity | 2023 - 2071 |
This Wine Goes Well With
Taste
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