2022 Donnhoff Roxheimer Hollenpfad EL Trocken
Grape
Riesling
Its Origins
Hailed by the likes of Robert Parker and Hugh Johnson and named Gault Millau Winemaker of the Year in 1999, Helmut Donnhoff is regarded in German Riesling circles as a super-star. And if you’re thinking that term is somehow an oxymoron, you’d probably find Helmut agrees. With the affable humility and deep deference to his vineyards of someone whose family have been making wine since 1750, Donnhoff believes that “winemaking alone cannot bring quality, it can only retain the available quality.” Wine is made in the vineyard, and from taking the helm in 1971 to the present Helmut has grown the family holdings from 4 hectares to a still modest 20 hectares of lovingly managed vineyards. 80% of which are Rielsing (many of them Erste Lage or Grand Cru) with the other 20%, reflecting Nahe’s less austere climates and more mixed clay and volcanic soils, given to Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc. But Riesling is king, with Helmut Donnhoff’s many classics from the steeper slate soils having themselves played a prominent role, over the last forty years, in formalising Nahe’s reputation as Germany’s third region for consistently premium and Grand Cru wines.
What The Critics Say
94/100 JamesSuckling.com, Stuart Pigott
“Fine, red sandstone on a very steep southern slope, further from the river. Very old vines. Very striking nose of wild berries and herbs (tarragon!) plus some white peach. Very zesty and vibrant with stacks of mountain freshness on the sleek and focused body, this has stacks of lime zest and pith at the very energetic dry finish. Drink or hold.”
92/100 Vinous, Anne Krebiehl MW
"The 2022 Riesling Roxheimer Höllenpfad is from Permian red sandstone. Despite much swirling, the nose is rather shy and does not want to give up any secrets. The taut palate is more forthcoming with a bright, crystal-clear lemon note. The 2022 is a linear wine with a proper streak of lemon zestiness and a deep well of ripe lemon freshness that is serene, streamlined, clear and lasting. Lovely. The fine acidity is buffered with a beautiful, subtle length. (Bone-dry)." Drink 2025 - 2045
96/100 Heiner Lobenberg
"Lobenberg: Fine, red sandstone on a very steep southern slope, further away from the river. Very old vines. Accordingly, unlike in Kahlenberg, there is a lot more force and pressure. Pink grapefruit with summer apple, lemongrass, very herbal, rocket, chervil and peonies. Also a bit of red elements like currant, a little hint of cranberry. On the one hand, the wine is mineral and more expressive than the previously tasted Kahlenberg; it is more intense, but still appears more harmonious and complete. This red sandstone also brings fullness and warmth, which at least makes it feel a little more melty. Kahlenberg is straighter, but also more linear. The path to hell is more sublime, more solemn and somewhere finer. But the acidity and, above all, the mineral sharpness of this stone are also clearly expressed here, but it feels a little milder. Infinitely long and, as I said, spicy with high extract sweetness. And that benefits him incredibly. The heat comes from the extract and the fruit, not from the alcohol, which is very moderate here. Reverberates for a long time with fine minerality and red-yellow, vibrant fruit."
| Variety | Riesling |
|---|---|
| Region | Nahe |
| Closure | Cork |
| Volume | 750 ml |
| Alcohol | 12.00% |
| Maturity | 2024 - 2045 |
This Wine Goes Well With
Taste
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