2020 Cantina del Pino Barbaresco

93 Points Wine Enthusiast
In stock
A beautifully polished, boutique Nebbiolo from Barbaresco. It is already on show, with vibrant yet rounded red fruit and floral characters, nuances of umami earth and that overall brightness that makes Nebbiolo so drop dead wonderful. From a family operation that can claim to be the first in Barbaresco. Gorgeous stuff by old hands in the town -- for this price an absolute bargain.
$69.99 in mixed 6+ or $77.99 per bottle

Grape

Nebbiolo

Its Origins

This is one of the oldest estates in Barbaresco and very important in the region. The director of Alba’s Royal Enological School, Domizio Cavazza, purchased the land in 1894, confounding locals by not investing in the famed Barolo area. He had identified the potential of the Nebbiolo grape here, on hills above an obscure village called Barbaresco. That same year he founded the Cantine Sociali as the first cooperative in the area (precursor to today's Produttori), and from this property he produced the very first wines under the now-famous appellation. They are located on the top of the legendary Ovello hillside, now one of the greatest vineyard areas in the denomination. The site is known for its combination of cooler microclimate and unique soils, blending limestone with sandy veins and a high calcium content, the perfect conditions for an elegant, age-worthy Barbaresco. Cantina del Pino has been owned and run by the Vacca family for a century. They have had the property since the 1920s when Giuseppe Vacca, bought it from his friend, and renamed it after the famous pine tree Cavazza planted the day of his son’s birth. Giuseppe and his uncles were among the 19 founding members of the Produttori del Barbaresco when it restarted in 1958. The modern story starts in 1997 when Giuseppe’s great grandson Renato joined his father at Cantina del Pino, and convinced him it was finally time to make their own wines. He and his wife Franca have led the estate to even greater heights since she joined in 2013, with a more refined and contemporary style, and a dedication to the environment. With an approximately equal range (40-70 years) of both the vine age, and of that of the family workforce of aunts and uncles that look after them, the wines here are the perfect balance of long established authenticity and modern low intervention winemaking. Tragically Renato passed away in 2020 at just 51 years of age. The iconic pine on the label is still black in his honour. These are pure, understated and elegant Barbaresco’s, with an incredibly complex expression of terroir, and great aging capacity. Franca, a winemaker in her own right, along with Renato’s parents, now continue the tradition and dedication to the quality wines of Cantina del Pino, the historic winery on the Ovello Hill.

What The Critics Say

93/100 Wine Enthusiast, Jeff Porter

"This wine holds its story close as if it’s waiting for just the right moment to reveal its secrets. Subtle aromas of wild fruits, dried herbs and the intriguing aroma of cola nut mingle with hints of licorice. On the palate, it’s a satisfying chewiness that gives the wine a richness to hold the dark-cherry notes and black-tea flavors. The fresh acidity adds a lively touch, promising that this wine has the stamina to age beautifully over time. Drink now–2045."

92/100 Kerin O'Keefe

‘Renato didn’t want to make an entry level wine, but a very good classic Barbaresco also because in volume this is our most important wine. A blend of Gallina, Starderi and Ovello.’ “Linear and lovely, the 2020 Cantina del Pino has pretty aromas of red forest berry, eucalyptus, dog rose leather and brown exotic spice. The luminous, lightly-hued and already accessible palate has an ethereal elegance and features wild strawberry, cranberry, white pepper and black tea alongside taut, fine-grained tannins. A bitter orange note signals the finish. Drink through 2029.”

Antonio Galloni on Cantina Del Pino

“Humble, down-to-earth, yet intensely driven, Renato Vacca is making some of the most exciting wines in the region. Vacca’s holdings are concentrated in and around the Ovello vineyard, a site long noted for its combination of cooler microclimate and poor soils, which give structured, age-worthy Barbarescos. Not only were the wines from Cantina del Pino among the standouts of my tastings, they also happen to be among the best values in Barbaresco. In short, I can’t say enough good things about the wines of Renato Vacca. Readers owe it to themselves to check out this up-and-coming producer.”

Variety Nebbiolo
Region Piedmont
Closure Cork
Volume 750ml
Alcohol 14.50%
Maturity 2024 - 2045

This Wine Goes Well With

with BEEF
with GAME
with LAMB

Taste

4

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